Day 106: Whirlwind

Today was a crazy-busy but wonderfully-packed day full of all the best that Seoul has to offer. A whirlwind day from beginning to end - Henry and I played tourist like there was no tomorrow. We covered the city from top to bottom - we really did pack it all in in just 24 hours - palaces and shopping and night markets and history and Korean cuisine and culture and dancing and debauchery. *Whew!* Korea's capital will never be the same again!

And all of this was done with a late start! We didn't get out of bed until 11am (had to sleep in a bit cause of our late night out last night!) and grabbed a quick lunch at Subway before launching full force into Tourist Mode. We made a b-line for Gyeongbokgung - Henry taking no less than approximately 254 photographs, I believe, from the cab as we drove through the city on the way to the glorious palace grounds. This was my third visit to Gyeongbokgung - known as the Palace of Shining Happiness - and I still find it awe-inspiring each and every time. It never loses its ancient lustre or magnetic appeal - I love this place.

It was hot and humid again but at least there was no rain! We made our way through the palace grounds, Henry photodocumenting every nook and cranny of the place, and then we walked on over to the National Museum. The National Museum is the largest of Korea's museums and is a great place to spend an afternoon - not only is it filled with thousands of incredible artifacts from thousands of years of civilization on the Korean peninsula but it is a cool and comfortable escape from the city's heat and smog! Thank God for air conditioning is all I can say! Normally how I prefer to tackle a large museum like this is to dedicate a whole day, or at least several hours of an afternoon, to wander through the entire collection, browsing every piece and exhibit. Well we didn't have time for this in today's schedule! In less than one hour we wizzed through no less than 32,000 years of Korean history in a flash - wow, time travel can be exhausting at this pace!

It was time for a Starbucks break after the museum - the energy level had dipped dangerously low below 'fabulously over-zealous' and we really needed the caffeine boost!
After refuelling it was back on the tour - next stop Changdeokgung Palace! This is the palace that I visited on my own a few months ago - the UNESCO World Heritage Site that requires one to join an organized tour in order to enter the grounds. Henry and I arrived just in time for the 3:30pm tour and we spent the next 90 minutes soaking up the splendour that is Changdeokgung.

It's hard for me to decide which of the two palaces we saw today I like best. They're both several hundred years old and very beautiful, yet quite different at the same time. I like Gyeongbokgung because it's absolutely massive and sprawling and it feels like I'm in a city-within-a-city. And you can stand inside the main inner stone courtyard, look north and see the ginormous palace reception hall surrounded by stone walls, colourful wooden peaked rooves, and Buddhist statues guarding over the sacred building. And then you can turn your head south and look out over the courtyard and see dozens of soaring modern skyscrapers topped by flashing digital billboards rising up behind the burly gate that guards the entrance - a magnificently alluring juxtaposition of the ancient with the futuristic. At Changdeokgung, however, I really feel like I can disappear from the chaos of Seoul and just lose myself in the palace grounds. I can hide among the pavillions and ponds in the once exclusive royal family's private gardens and almost imagine that I've been transported back through time to the Joseong Dynasty. All that surrounds you are the quietness of the ancient architecture and the serenity of the private forest. Huge orange Japanese coy swim in the pond, birds are chirping, and a cool breeze whispers through the boreals. Escapism at its best.

After Changdeokgung we cruised through Insadong, exploring the arts and crafts shops, and then having some delicious bibimbap for dinner. Then it was time to head over to Namdaemun Market where we spent a good two hours plus exploring the never-ending market. Namdaemun is one of the largest outdoor markets in Seoul, comprised of several streets and alleyways, filled with thousands upon thousands of stands selling everything from shoes to lingerie to ginseng candy to leather jackets to squid to knockoff designer purses to sea urchents to twelve billion t-shirts. So cool! We both did some shopping - Namdaeum is a bargain-hunter's paradise - and stayed until it started to close down around 9pm or so.

It was then time to head back to Itaewon to get all gussied up for our big bad night out on the town. We decided to 'go glam' and really dress up tonight - dress pants and funky shirts and shiny shoes and modelesque hair! (yes we're modest boys!) We made our appearance back at the lounges on 'the hill' and met up with my friends Austin & Eric. We had an absolutely amazing night - we were introduced to lots of new people, had too many drinks, and danced the night away until 3am. We then left the club scene to repeat last night's late-night snack bar gig. We found another streetside Korean 'greasy-spoon' grill and ordered up a big buffet of deep fried treats. YUM!!!
After socializing and snacking it was time for bed. Another late arrival at the motel - just after 4am tonight when we pulled in.

What a great day!!! It truly was a whirlwind tour of Seoul! My head was still spinning as I laid down to sleep. Blissful dizziness...